Two steps forward, One step back…

One of the jobs we did not get to do before we left was to change the ladder we use to get in and out of the camper portion of the truck. The one that came with the Mog looked like it belonged in a christmas cracker, but was rejected as it was too spindley and not suitable for childred under 3 years. I might suggest it was not suitable for adults over 40 kilos in weight! We had been discussing this for quite some time, how to improve it.

Merv and Stonne thinking it through.

We were parked outside the town of Tafaroute, in an area the size of Roland Garros, and while walking around the town, Merv spotted a little welding shop that seemed to be producing high quality steel doors and windows. When we inspected their work, it turned out the owner had some good english,

and we could discuss our idea. We agreed to turn up the following morning with the truck, and get the job done.

The next morning, we pulled over to the side of the road outside the metal work shop. We were in the throes of explaining to the guy doing the welding what we wanted, when our Neighbour from the campsite happened by, and did some translating for us. I have to wonder what we would have gotten without him! Merv had brought some strong 40mm box section steel from home, along with some larger box section to weld to the Mog. All we had to do was explain the size of the step we wanted. Easier said than done without fluent French! or Arabic!

 

 

Getting something like this done to the mog seems to attract a bit of attention!

We also needed steps to be able to get up to the landing pad, and there was great scratching of heads about how this was to be done. We had already spotted something that would work, so we went to the next door hardware store, and bought a set of steps that opened into an A frame ladder. 2 minutes with the angle grinder, and hey presto – a set of steps!

 

the welding leads were a bit short, so a length of steel got used as an earth wire!

Before the welding started, Merv disconnected both sets of batteries, the truck batteries (for starting the mog) and the domestic batteries (for running the fridge etc). This is ordinarily enough to avoid any issues, but the solar panels were generating enough power to keep the systems running, and ended up getting “fried”, hence the step backwards!

We decided to cut short out time in Tafaroute, and head for Agadir to get the controller replaced, but just as we were pulling out of our parking spot, another neighbour suggested we try a place in Tiznit called “Electro Simo”. Mimo (The name of the guy in the Simo shop…..) did not have a direct replacement for the fried controller, but in mid conversation he asked to wait a moment, and we watched him leave his store, say something to a guy on the street and hop into a Petit Taxi and disappear! 2 minutes later the guy from the street was serving us Tea in the electronics store, and 4 minutes after that, Mimo was back in the same taxi, with the correct controller for our truck! What a service!

Lets hope it works!

 

 

 

Many hands make light work, but many voices "gibber jabbering" doesn't make it clearer!

 

 

 

Many thanks to Hilda for her photographs! To see Stonne and Hildas blog, click here.

Discussing the Design on the sidewalk.

Sarah keeps an eye on her new landing pad

 

Testing the landing pad for size, and to make sure it would hold Sarah up!

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You put the left foot in, the left foot out….

Cutting out the sole from a template

In a little village in the mountains in Morocco, the people have to be very self sufficient. That includes footwear, from Design, Prototype, Manufacture, Quality Control and distribution and Sales. We managed to see all that happen in about 20 minutes in a shop that measured about 6 feet by 8 feet.

There were 2 men, making shoes in a way that only years of working together can bring. They were both making and mending, but it was difficult to tell what was new and what was old. They had the templates, leather, tools and experience, and with this, they did it all. We did’nt see a single computer, calculator, drawing, sketch or piece of paper in the place, and still they were turning out what their customers wanted. And all done with a smile on their faces. They even made room for me to sit down while I took a few photos.

to start the polisher, he pluggd it in and then used his hand to roll the motor to get it spinning and off it went.

We did see one customer come into the shop to collect his shoes. One did’nt quite fit, but about 30 seconds of hammering and pulling on the shoe and it was just grand. Cinderella was lucky this guy wasn’t around, I think he could have got any shoe to fit any foot!

This guy was making and repairing shoes. it's a permanent shop which does massive trade on Souk day. I love his friend on the right laughing at him having his photo taken.

No matter what I tried, he would'nt look at the Camera, this is the closest I got to a portrait. Loved the light from the door.

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Monday Morning Shopping

Taliouine is really just a village but is the centre for saffron and is only grown in this area, and harvested in September and October. It has a really good Souk held every Monday.  We arrived at 9.30 and it was in full swing,really lovely seeing people greeting each other, having coffee together, haggling over the price of straw , chickens, goats, or even the simplest thing for example a bag of oranges. Believe me what ever you wanted without doubt you would be able to buy it in a Souk.

These goats were in the queue to get into the butchers. They did'nt make it out in one piece...

Meat counters are certainly different than at home, no such thing as refrigeration, you can see a whole animal hanging, and in some cases you can see live goats and hens lying on the ground waiting their turn for under the knife.   It dosent come fresher than this.

Remember those goats?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Honey!

Pouring the honey until we get to the right weight.

Next, we grab a handfull of the honey comb and dump it in.

Definitly from Bees....

Merv was looking for honey, oh boy did he get honey, combs and all.  The bees were buzzing around us everywhere and  as we went over to the stall, a lovely man stuck a knife into a pot and let us taste it, very sweet for me, but Merv gave the thumbs up to him, so the negiotating started and we settled on a small jar of honey.  He didnt have a small jar in his collection so he hopped across to another stall and got a small jar and filled it for us, wiped the outside of the jar with water as it was sticky.  Nothing is a problem once they will make a sale, and everything done with a smile.

 

Coffee and Spice time!

We also bought coffee, coffee with a difference as we discovered when we got back, as because it was beside all the very strong smelling spices, namely saffron, guess what we had saffron flavoured coffee LOL.  No worries though, washed it under the tap and dried it in the sun in the afternoon and according to the coffee Maestro its pretty damn good, saffron and all.

 

 

 

Fruit and veg are very plentiful here and very cheap, I bought quite a few of both and all less than 1 euro, petty good  really.

This old lady meant business!

Doing the deal

The Souk was mainly all men, a very small percentage womenn, and not too many children either, which I think was a good sign as hopefully they were in school.  Nobody paid us a bit of attention, we pottering through doing our shopping just like everybody else.  Some people were buying in bulk, obviously stocking up for their own little shops, and as it got nearer to midday cars and vans started filling up with people and shopping, not an inch of space wasted.

 

 

 

 

It's normal for men to hold hands after shaking hands when greeting until the end of the conversation.

 

It was time for a coffee stop, so we picked a sun drenched terrace in the middle of the market, with posh white plastic tables and chairs, and were served beautiful coffee by a very elderly man, the locals all sitting in side in the shade wondering why we wanted to be in the sun, easy known we were Irish ! LOL.

 

I've no idea what was going on, but it really had the attention of the young guys

 

Want butter? Then you'll have to churn it yourself.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Shopping done, and not even a handbag bought, yet .

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A Sunday Drive

Having wild camped we woke to find a light dusting of snow on the ground, with a little more on the mountains which we could see from our window.  Merv managed to get out of bed in time for sunrise and this is what he shot, i had an extra ’10’ or so minutes in bed, and then up I got and put the kettle on for the morning coffee, oh it was cold outside, I knew this only by quickly opening the window!!!!!!!!!!!!, I shut it even quicker.

Early morning sunrise shows a dusting of Snow that suprised us

 

No, The screen is fine.This is Merv shivering in the cold!

 

Clouds wrapping the top of the mountain peaks

After breakfast of porridge and bannans off we went to the town , village really, of Sour where I did my shopping of eggs and bread. No problem buying bread, but had a problem remembering the french word for ‘eggs’, (oeuf) I had a blank, but I had an empty carton with me all the way from Tinahely as my Mum sells eggs, so I ran back to the MOG grabbed the carton and hey presto all smiles in the shop, eggs popped into carton for me, 60 cent for 2 loaves of bread and six eggs, not bad![[

 

Eggs, Eggs, Give me the flipping Eggs!

All she had to say was "Le Egg"...

 

Back on the road after getting the Eggs, and confusing 2 really nice guys in the shop.

Everybody was on the move, women going to work in the fields, men doing a spot of car pooling on there way to Gods know where.

 

How far do you have to walk to work today?

Extreme car pooling is the order of the day

We were roughly following a route by Chris Scott,  MH6,and once the tarmac ended , we followed twisty roads, through several villages with grassy green terraces down below, and even my brother David would be impressed that not even an inch of ground was wasted. The irrigation system cleverly uses gravity and ancient water channels which have been built over the years.

Village and fields in the High Atlas mountains

Every inch of ground used, and very productive.

 

When we got to Assarag we tried to drive up towards Lake Ifni, but the road got smaller and smaller until we could go no further by MOG, a few tight squeezes!

 

Debate about how close it is...

Nice view of the valley below in the mirror......

Yup. Pretty close....

And if you want to see more of the route, including how narrow it is, take a look on youtube for the video, or click here to see it now.

 

Note the house roof level with the road, and the door openin onto the same road!

Luckily we found a wide river bed we could turn in, and so we continued along the main route to Aoulouz, after driving through a few hairpin turns, and on then to Taliouine. We wanted to be in Taliouine by Sunday evening so as to make the Monday Souk, which is just like an Irish market/car boot sale.  More on that soon, but here is a sample:

Great place to like Veggies!

 

Well, this map shows where we are now. Until the next time!

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Where is Moglander? 19 Feb 2012

Well, We are back into a camp site with internet access, so we’ve a few more photos and video’s to upload. It’s late, so we just have a taste of the video’s uploaded, you can see it here: Youtube.

 

And we’re now in this Talouine, right here:

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Map of where we’ve been so far – Feb 16 2012

This is a collection of our waypoints. I’ll label them more clearly in the future now that I can get them from the GPS electronically all the way to the maps!

And this is the route between Foum Zguid and Ouarzazate, it’s grand for 2wd, and has stunning views as it’s through the mountains.

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