A few landscapes from Argentina

Well, as many of you know, we are currently held up sorting out a wheel bearing problem. We thought we would skip back through a few photos of Argentina’s scenery that took our fancy, and share them. Hope you enjoy.

Clean water

Image 1 of 7

The water in the lakes is so clean it's scary.

 

 

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A Video of the roads through Argentina based around Ruta 40

Short post folks, Just to let you have a peek at the various roads we’ve been driving on our way south through Argentina. Much of this is Ruta 40, but also some side routes etc. You don’t even need a coffee, it’s 3 weeks of driving compressed into 2.5 minutes 🙂

 

 

Some of the photos we took on route can be seen over on our Moglander facebook page.

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Other adventurers in Argentina, young and old.

Looking good for 68 years

We met this lovely couple Klaus and Christina who were also traveling in their camping car, but the difference between them and us is that they have been traveling in the same camping car for 30 years and the car itself is 68 years old, but as Klaus says there is still a lot of places to see and living to be done. He himself is 74 years old, still full of adventure and spirit which is wonderful to see from somebody who has done so much already. He joked and said the car is nearly ready for the museum as it has already done over 600,000 kms. Whow, we both said, we have a bit of catching up to do! We just asked him about some places we wanted to see, routes to take, he didn’t even have to look at the map, he knew every place off by heart, and even told us of more we hadn’t heard of. We liked the image and energy that Klaus portrayed so much, we submitted a little insight story to the Ted Simon Foundation.

It’s the old dog for the hard road

Klaus.

Ruta 40 is a long quiet road for bikes

We also met Andrea and Anna, a lovely couple from Brazil who are traveling by bicycles, and as we drove by they were stopped on the side of the road, so we pulled up to see if they were okay, they were just mending a puncture, one of many they told us.(Little did we know that we would soon have our own puncture and wheel trouble). However, we asked would they like a cup of coffee, and who in their right mind would say ‘no’ to one of Merv’s special brews, so in they popped to the Mog as it was too cold to drink it outside and they told us that they too were en route to Usuahia for in or around Christmas time, they on bicycles, us in a truck, hmmmm. They travel between 50 and 80 kms per day, and then pitch their tent pretty much where ever they stop. The day before they met us they spotted a Puma in front of them on the road, weren’t too sure it was one at first, as they were tired after their day, but as they got a little closer they realized it was, and suddenly they had a new lease of life as they peddled very fast to get away from it, so as to pitch their tent in safety. Seeing a Puma is very rare here, so the fact that they were on bicycles, there was no noise, plus they were small ,and it meant that the Puma didn’t feel threatened by them. Really lucky guys seeing a Puma, envious!.

Guests in for Morning Coffee. As you do.

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Ever need a Gomeria in a hurry? Puncture on the Mog.

We were almost bound to get a puncture at some point, and I guess it happened “easy”. For luck Sarah was out of the truck taking a hike, and I had stopped a few KM down the road waiting for her. I hopped out of the truck and heard air coming out of somewhere, and as I’m used to a few air leaks on the air system of the truck, I was not majorly concerned but took a walkabout to track it down anyway. As I got to the rear tyre, the sound was getting way too loud to be good. Luckily it had not gone completely flat, which meant no damage had been done to the tyre, and I could easily identify where the leak was.

It was easy to see where the damage was.

 

And we had another issue, it was about 6pm, and we needed to get back to the nearest town to collect some laundry we had left in. As it was a Saturday evening, if we didn’t collect it, we would have to wait until Monday morning to get it. Time for some quick tyre changing, and as anyone who has had anything to do with a Mog knows, not much happens quick!

 

Something missing from here… At least I got to inspect the brakes, all good there.

One question we often get is “how do you change a wheel?”. To get the wheel off – it’s easy. Getting it back on can be fun. This next photo is the crux of it. To get the wheel onto the rim, move the wheel about, and lift it and spin it a little, you use 2 long lever bars. One on each side of the tyre at about the 5 and 7 oclock positions.  To get the top of the tyre to go in onto the studs, once it is lined up, you just give it a nod of the head. Easy really. Top marks to my buddy Norm for teaching me this trick, you gotta hand it to a trucker.

Normans 2 levers and a head trick

Once we had the spare on, we had to pump it up. We carry the spare almost flat, about 10psi so that it will fit in under the body of the camper. We have a slightly oversized tyre from the standard size, so we need all the help we can get to get the spare in, so we carry it pretty soft to allow it to squeeze in. And since we have onboard air pressure, we just pump it up when we need it.

Sarah pumping up the spare

We normally have about 80psi in the rear tyres, and about 65psi in the front. Getting from 10psi to 80psi in a large tyre takes a while!

 

We had been hearing some air leaks from under the truck, so I took the chance to have a good rummage about while the spare was out.

The completely flat spare went back in easily, and we were on our way pretty quick. We made it in time for the Laundry which was great or it would have cost us 2 days.

On the Sunday as we went through Junin de los Andes, we spotted a tyre place (Gomeria) open, so we got it fixed. It’s very nerve wrecking driving with no spare in Argentina, the distances are so great. There are tyre places in most towns, but getting a flat wheel to and from them could be fun. Bringing a Mog wheel on the local bus or taxi might be a tad difficult!

All the tyre fixing places have signs like these.

 

The tyre with its new patch.

 

The continental tyre goes on and off the rim pretty easy as truck tyres go.

The cost of the repair? A$100, which is about €14. Not so bad I suppose 🙂

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Oktoberfest, Argentinian Style!

Beer and Strudel, yes, what a combination you are asking yourself, but as we found out they go quite well together !

There may have been more beer than apple strudle, but I think the strudle was nicer.

The Angie, Phil, Sarah and Merv gang

After various e mails and way points, we finally met up with Phil and Angie at a wild camp down by the river just outside of Villa General Belgrano and we spent 3 lovely days with them. We had found Phil from his web site, www.philflanagan.com. Phil and Angie are very experienced travellers, and have the best set of documented GPS waypoints we have ever seen. As they have been in the southern parts of Argentina, we got loads of tips on places that are worth visiting, and other general travel tips.

Sarah and Phil seemed to hit it off a bit too well. Must be her lovely dress.

However, we were very lucky on our timing here as the whole town had exploded into life as the Oktoberfest beer festival had just started and continued until Monday, happy days we said, would be a shame not to sample some German Beer, so our Saturday night entertainment was decided for us. The town’s main street was lined with beer cellars, authentic German food, chocolate shops, Lutheran chapels and was buzzing with people all carrying pitchers of beer, a fantastic atmosphere and as you can image as the evening wore on, the fun and frollicks got even better.

I thought this looked quite well on her.

Bit of a girls weekend out I think

Looking cool in Shades

Not everyone was acting happy

There was some kind of foam fight going on, looked like fun

The Argentines know how to party

Great craic for a street party

I have no idea what part of German beer festivals this relates to

If you dont have a mate, bring one with you. Bare chested and in a kilt.

Before you ask , there was an Irish Bar and many Irish shirts and hats. We spoke to this particular guy and asked him why the Irish hat, and he told us his friend brought it back to him from Dublin. Sure it wouldn’t be the same without the Irish!

Local guy in an Irish hat. Perfectly normal he assured us.

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A little History !

Reluctantly we left our sleepy little places that we had traveled through over the last few weeks, but  as we were heading towards the Andean Northwest,  the city of Cordoba was on route and it took our fancy for a day, and we were not disappointed.  We parked in the Municipal Gral San Martin campsite which was about 10km from the center and we took the bus in , mind you it was a 2 km walk to the bus stop, but sure no worries we said.  Actually it was a nice walk as you were walking through the natural reserve so there was no traffic. We were the only people staying there, so we had a huge area all to ourselves, no problem with space for the mog, and as you saw in an earlier photo on face-book, we even had our own guard dog.   However, when we got on the bus,we realized that  the bus driver didn’t take money as everybody operates on pre-paid bus tickets which you just swipe as you get on, but he didn’t blink when he saw us Tourists. But, a lovely lady got up from her seat and paid for us without evening thinking about it, people are just so good, mind you I did pay her, and for our return journey home a student did exactly the same for us.  Apparently it is quite acceptable for some one else to pay on their card for you, and you just give them the money, but in fact the student didn’t even want to take the money from us! I certainly will be more aware when I see Tourists on Dublin Bus in the future!

The streets were normally busier, this was the only time I felt safe enough to get a shot without being driven over. And it was the widest street in the City.

Cordoba is set in the central sierras and it is a bustling modern and university town, characterized by beautiful old colonial buildings, a fascinating mix of old and new, for example you can see crowded student bars next to old Jesuit ruins!.  Most of Cordoba’s population are of Italian descent and you see some young designers and artisans selling their stuff on the streets.

We were surprised to see a statue of Anne Frank (The Dutch girl famous for her diaries during the 2nd world war).

Here in Cordoba we wanted to see the Museo de la Memoria (Museum of the Missing). This museum occupies a space formerly used as a clandestine center for detention and torture. It was operated by the Department of Intelligence (D2), a special division created in Cordoba to persecute and repress suspected political activists.  The walls are covered with photographs of people who are still ‘missing’ after 30 years, memory books are left in memory of loved ones, and people can bring related subject matter like letters , written documents, objects, belonging to these people at any time to the Museum.  It had quite an eery feeling as you walk through it imagining what had happened here , but it is a reminder of an era that human-rights groups hope will never be forgotten  , or all of us for that matter.

Sarah looks through some of the books in the Museum. The faces of the missing on the wall makes it a very personal thing.

Outside the Museum, images of each of the missing are overhead between the Museum and the Cathedral What is crazy is that the detention and torture building looked out on the Cathedral and the Cities main square.

After all of that heavy stuff it was time for lunch and a beer which we enjoyed sitting in amongst the students and people watching while enjoying the lovely sunshine.

Just a little outside of Cordoba is a beautiful little town called Alta Gracia, and it first came into prominence in the 1920 s as it attracted wealthy Argentinians in search of second homes, and it was here that Ernesto Che Guevara spent a lot of his childhood years, and now the house/museum is like a shrine to him.  It is only a small little house, and here you can see a collection of family photos, Cuban bank notes (as he became the President of the bank ) , school report cards, letters to his aunt, his favorite books that he liked to read, he also played golf and was an excellent chess player.   Also you can see the house’s original kitchen stove, and it was know as an ‘economy stove’ due to its novel system of supplying the house with hot water, and Ernesto spent a lot of time here when his asthma prevented him from playing with his friends.

Outside the house, there is a statue of Che as a child. I wonder what he would have made of the Mog.

The Norton. We’re not sure that it was Che’s bike, but it seems it was with him on one of his rides when he wrote the motorcycle diaries.

There are great maps of his trips through Latin America and you can see the 500cc Norton that he and his buddy used for one of them. An added interest to us was that his family were partly of Irish descent, apparently!

There is a map of where Che traveled, and he really does qualify as an over-lander.

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