As we were back on the road after our hiccup we headed to the Atlantic Coast to see the whales. However, we didn’t get to see as many as we would have wished as we were a few weeks after the peak viewing time, but nevertheless we did see some. I guess even when travelling everything doesn’t always go according to plan. Mind you those that we did see , the Southern White Whales, were quite spectacular as they were swimming only 15 or 20 meters from us as we strolled along the beach on a couple of mornings, and it was as if they were there specially for us as there was nobody else in sight, hence we stayed 3 days here and when we moved to another little beach we saw some Orca’s also swimming close to the shore and they were keeping a very close watch on the sea-lions which were snoozing on the beach , the sea-lions all escaped for another day without being eaten!
Also here we bumped into our pals from Grimaldi ship Ute and Achmed and spent a super day catching up on both of our adventures so far, hopefully we will bump into them in Chile next year.
Fantastic views here in Peninsula Valdes, the whales are an added bonus. Maybe one of the best things on the Atlantic coast of Argentina
We then went a little North to Viedma , a little spot called El Condor, to meet up with a bunch of overlanders for the weekend. Mind you they were all on motorcycles so the Moglander was given special dispensation to enter and camp for the few days. A great weekend of travel stories and tales, a few beers and in typical Argentinian style plenty of meat. Believe or not on the Saturday we all went on a visit to an Agricultural Show, yes no kidding, and we couldn’t decide whether we were in Tinahely or Tullamore, what a lovely few hours it was, but yet again the motorcycles were on display in front of the main stage for the afternoon, the Mog was shunned to the car park, ah well can’t win them all.
Here the campsite was just across from the beach, and a short stroll brought you to the biggest parrot colony in the world, over 35,000 parrots here, what a lot of chatter and gobbly gook each morning and evening! Managed to get a couple of nice sunsets here too, sunrise was a bit too early after beer and meat, lol.
So the penguins were next on our list, at Cabo Dos Bahias and at Peurto Deseado, The Magellanic Penguins ,and my god there were hundreds of them. You could actually sit on the beach drinking your coffee and they would just wander by, going up and down to the water , totalling ignoring you. Once you kept at their height level they didn’t feel threatened. Also a lot of babies had just been born so the females were very protective of them, as overhead loads of gulls and Skuas (type of bird)were flying trying to grab the chicks. Unfortunately we did see quite a few dead chicks , but take it from me the Skuas are not so nice, they fly real low , ( obviously to catch their prey) and in doing so I got hit 3 times by them, not funny. Alfred Hitchcock’s movie ‘Birds’ movie came into my mind, hmmm. Was never a great fan of birds but am even less now!
Then we went to see the Rockhopper Penguins,also in Peurto Deseado, and yes these are a treat. They are really comical to watch, full of expressions and really inquisitive. They live in the wildest place of the coast, only accessible by boat and here they share their habitat with Elephant Seals, Cormorants (black ones and the very unusable grey ones, each have their own habitat on the rocks and they do not mix) Magellanic Penguins, Elephant Seals and Sea Lions, Skuas ,Commerson’s Dolphins and Peal’s Dolphins, all of the above which we saw and watched in great detail and for some time as we walked all around the island. Also here was a centennial lighthouse , still in use, however , it is now lit by solar panels and batteries, plus some of the penguins use it as a Hotel.! We really felt we were at home with nature as we walked around this wonderful place.