Moglanders first ‘offence’!

Many mornings we hit the road early so as to get the miles done before the sun gets too hot. Not all, but some mornings start with not a cloud in the sky giving us spectacular sunrises. We are looking forward to being in the mountains to really be able to appreciate them.

Hitting the road early. We were heading west, so early mornings meant no sun in our eyes

Mind you on this particular day maybe we should have stayed in bed a little longer, because first of all a bus driver (who was in the slow lane) decided to take the mog on as he overtook a cyclist but never bothered to look to his left (we were in the fast lane, believe it or not, lol) and kept going, and only that we slowed down I reckoned my side of the truck might be in a sad state of affairs.  Brave bus driver mind you!!!!!!!!!!!, maybe we were tooooo small for him to see!

Anyway the day didn’t improve as we came to a cross roads with traffic in front of us ( including a police car) that all drove straight through the cross roads.  As it happens there was a STOP sign that we all ignored, but we did slow and check that it was safe.  However up ahead about 100 meters, there were six or seven police officers processing a line of vehicles for not coming to a complete stop, and guess what ‘yes’ we were in that line.  No amount of ‘no entiendo’  worked, in fact the police officer called an English speaking colleague to speak to Merv on the phone and to explain exactly why and what we were being charged with. We were skeptical at first in case this was a shake down, but the police officers were not accepting money from anybody and the only way to pay the fine was in a bank, and before we signed any documentation we had our Spanish Dictionary ( yes even on the side of the road) out translating the below fine. We were reassured again that it was above board when another lady showed us hers, she too with a sad face, The two forms were identical.  The fine was initially A$ 1377.80 (A$ means Argentinian Dollar or Peso) but if you pay within 10 days, you are given a 50% discount, hence you pay A$688.90., quite clever on their part!

Not feeling too good having got a fine.

For those who might travel on Ruta 19 from Santa Fe to Cordoba, watch this spot! It looks like a permanent setup as they catch so many people.
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The image of the cop making money off his computer marks the spot! If you hover over the cop, you’ll get the precise co-ordinates. You’ve been warned!

Other notes: The only documents the police wanted to see were Merv’s Irish driving license, and the Temporary Import document for the truck. No passports, insurance etc.

Categories: Argentina | 5 Comments

Mocona Argentina, Living on the road

After living it up in Brazil for the few days with Rod and Adriano, it was back to the map reading and navigation. Lucky for me by taking a wrong turn, (its good sometimes not to agree with the  map,) nothing to  do with me not reading it correctly, we ended up at this lovely place for our overnight stop.  Mocona, or in true Guarani language means ‘he who swallows everything’.

Photograph of the Mocona waterfall

3km, all like this. Not an easy life for a salmon. Mocona is a long waterfall

Mocona is a 3 kilometers long canyon, with parallel waterfalls normally of 5 to 15 m high.  They are unique because they are longitudinal to the course of the water. Also here there are nice walks you can do through the rainforest which protects birds, mammals and fish.  The only sounds other than our footsteps where those of the birds and mammals, loads of multi-coloured butterflies were to be seen when we hit a sunny spot, and how abundant tree ferns, canes and old trees all live in this thick vegetation.

Lovely dry waterfall on one of our hikes

We pretty much had the place to ourselves, wonderful.

Even the trees eat other trees here.

Not really on the tourist trail just yet, but by the looks of it a Visitors Center is in the process of being built.  We eventually managed to see a Toucan, so they do exist after all, and not just for show on the Guinness Adds.

Local bikes constantly undertake us.

Merv trying to find his way across a road to the YPF fuel station. Not as easy as it sounds.

Traveling along you can just about see anything or everything in one day, from oxen pulling wagons like they had in the westerns,

Crossing the river Parana that looks more like a lake to us

entire families traveling on motor-bikes, some even try to take the mog on, huge trucks transporting cattle, cars so old you actually wonder how they are still moving, then you have the lovely new cars, what a contrast, people cycling usually with a person on the front and the back, plus the shopping, and then of course the ‘gaucho’ which is a lovely sight to see as they ride through the fields herding their cattle.  On a few occasions we have actually parked and watched them as they gather their huge herds and just as well they are on horse-back as there are no ditches, the fields seem to go for miles and miles.

Heading to town. 120km away.

Ever think you would be so happy to see a unimog.

The roads are okay but we do travel on some off-road ones also, makes it much more fun and interesting, even if it does take longer to get to our destination and it is on these ‘not so popular routes’ you see how the people really live and how they work the land, some with machinery and some by hand.

We like the smaller sleepier towns the best, folks take the time to say hello, and will spend the time to help us butcher their language while trying to be polite. We were even given a stack of sandwiches by a guy who learned we were from Ireland and driving all the way to Ushuaia! We even found a hairdresser looking to sort Merv out.

Did not know my new business was up and running in Argentina

Most people cook outdoors usually on a Asado, an open-air barbecue for grilling cuts of meat and they are an important community ritual for gauchos and country-dwellers, and most of them grill the meat with the skin still attached.  Most little parks that we stop in to have our lunch usually have asado’s which is super,and you will always see some locals their cooking up something to eat with their family and friends and just having fun, they can even buy a kite to play with too.

Kites for sale near the parks in the larger towns.

Some petrol stations/truck stops also have places to BBQ, you might not be able to buy a pint of milk, but you can cook and buy a large bottle of cool beer, happy days !

Categories: Argentina | Tags: | 7 Comments

Iguazu Bikers Hostel – Brazilian Hospitality

After seeing the Iguazu falls from the Argentinian side, we decided to go into Brazil for a few days to see it from that side, and also to help with a visa issue. Off we went to Iguazu Bikers Hostel.

Brazilian side of the Falls

When you arrive in Argentina, they give you a 90 day visa, valid from the day you arrive. Ours had started on the 12th of September when we arrived into Argentina, but that meant that as we travel down to the Southern extremes of Argentina, we would have to get there by the 12th of December when it would be still cold, and we would be early for our “Christmas in Ushuaia” idea. By crossing into Brazil for a few days, and then back to Argentina we got a new visa so our 90 days will now run until the 25th of December – perfect for what we want.

 

Once in Brazil, we needed somewhere to park. We tried at the local tourist office , but they could only suggest a regular (and expensive) camp site. I had been in touch with Rod from the horizons unlimited website “The Hubb” and he said he would sort out a place for us to park.  He did this and more!

 

Hammocks for sale on the side of the road

Rod met us on the road and brought us to the Iguazu Bikers Hostel, a new Hostel that is dedicated to overland travelers but specialising in bikers. Their email address is iguassutravellershostel(at)gmail.com It’s run by Rod and Adriano, and they have a big secure yard where you can lock your bike, truck or 4×4. It’s not in the town centre so it’s quiet, but it’s still within walking distance from Supermarkets, Laundry, beer shops, restaurants, pizza take-away and a fuel station. So we settled in for a couple of days which ended up being 4 days!

We spent one day out at the Itaipu dam, which is a Hydro Electric Power station. This one power station provides most of Paraguays power, and a lot of Brazils. Each country owns half of it. The tours are for an hour, and we were disappointed that the giant spillway was dry – which meant no spectacular views for us, and no snazzy photos for you! 🙂

Sarah falls for a fruity guy

During one of our hikes (Stomps actually, as Sarah decided we would walk at full battle speed for at least an hour), we saw a fruit seller selling his wares from the back of his pickup. Trade was quiet, and he was relaxing in his hammock. I had hoped to get a picture of this, but as anyone approached, he hopped out of the hammock. When we tried to talk with him, he was convincing Sarah to buy a bag of oranges, and somehow that involved her falling into his hammock!

Need a trailer for your bike? Need a way to tow a wheelbarrow?

We ate out one night at a Rodizo restaurant, which is a way to get you to eat as much meat as you can and enjoy it! The waiters bring the meat to the table, and carve it onto your plate. Each waiter brings different meats, so you can sample quite a good selection.

Sarah getting served

The waiters kept coming while the table number was showing up in green. This is Rod by the way.

After an hour or so, I had to throw in the towel and put up the red side of the card to make it all stop.

Back in the Hostel, we had a new guest turn up, Mika from the Hubb who we had also been in touch with. He arrived in time to help carry in a new couch for the Hostel.

Iguazu bikers hostal

Mika and Rod with the couch. I would have helped, but then who would have taken the photo.

Sarah tried to buy Mikas Africa twin for a beer. No sale.

Iguazu Bikers Hostel

Adriano took great care of us in the Hostel. And he is a pretty good chef too.

Adriano carving dinner fresh from the asado.

Categories: Brazil | Tags: | 4 Comments

Big Water in Iguazu, Argentina

After a long day’s drive in mid 30 degrees heat we arrived at Iguazu Falls.  This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is one of the planets many awe-inspiring sights, they are simply astounding.  A visit is jaw-dropping, and the power and the noise of the cascades is wonderful.  I think the setting even makes it more special, as they are split between Brazil and Argentina in a huge national park, a lot of it being rain forest, but also has flora and fauna, thousands of different insects, hundreds of birds, mammals and reptiles.  In total they stretch for 3 km and there are over 250 waterfalls.

Looking over at Brazil past the Devils Throat.

Pity the photos do not have sound

Iguazu Falls

Iguazu Falls may be 250 feet high, but the mist goes higher

The Argentine and Brazilian sides obviously offer different views and experiences of the falls, but we saw it from the Argentine side so we had a great variety of trails and boat rides.  Also both days were clear blue skies so we saw lovely rainbows and many multi-coloured butterflies which only emerge when the sun is shinning. Walking around is the best way to see the falls, with loads of walking paths offering great views over the cascades.  You can also take a train which takes you to the most spectacular sight, the Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat, 80 meters high) but it is very walkable also (mind you Merv might disagree, but anyway).   Here the lookout platform is perched right over this amazing powerful torrent of  water, and yes, with the mighty spray you get good and wet , fantastic.  Here is a photographers opportunity of making money as I counted 22 ladders (not all in use I might add, as off peak season) which they use to take photos, with yes a pretty cool background.  Anyway I had my own photographer with me, so I will leave it up to you guys to see if he fitted the bill !

Yes, we were there

Contemplating a good scrub in the HUGE shower

Thinking about diving

Anyone for the last of the ladders now…

Also on these trails you will see large lizards, coatimundi which are one of the most commonly spotted mammals (part of the raccoon family) who like to share your lunch as I found out today as one went to grab my ‘crisps’ but I was faster than him, but you have to be careful as they can bite you.  Also we saw some chattering  Capuchin monkey’s , who were just jumping from tree to tree, eating leaves as they went, plus an otter fishing, and boy, was he strong to be able to fish and keep himself steady against the flow of the water, plus massive fish more that 2 foot long, and then of course some huge turtles out sunbathing.

Capuchin monkey’s are the stars of the show. Everyone wants a photo

This butterfly nearly had me legless…

 

Argentinians don’t seem to like walking

The boat lines up for a run into the white water mist of the falls

Who wants to be a ‘photographer’ when you can be a ‘THRILL SEEKER’ instead, and if you think the walkways give you a close-up view, think again, as nothing beats taking the boat ride straight into the magnificent  Salto San Martin waterfall , here its up close and intimate, so much spray and water that you can hardly see where you going, maybe that’s not so bad as you don’t realize how close to the edge you were, and oh yes , every inch of you is wet, no fun otherwise, but  a wonderful 10 minutes! After all, 28 days at sea just wasn’t enough! You gotta live life!

The only place we found for camping was the “Complejo Turístico Americano” which is located on the National Route 12, three km from Puerto Iguazú and 15 km from the Iguazú Falls. And they have good wifi!

(Added in 2014 – It’s well worth visiting Angel falls in Venezuela if you are really into waterfalls!)

 

 

 

 

 

Categories: Argentina | Tags: , , , , , | 3 Comments

Mission Improbable – the Jesuits in the Jungle

About 400 years ago, someone had a bright idea. Wouldn’t it be cool to head off into the jungles of south america, and build grand complexes where a whole new lifestyle could be tried out. All that is left of this era is a collection of old ruins, patches of ground that the jungle is working hard to take back and in some cases, is winning.

But back in the 1600’s the Jesuits created about 30 settlements in the wildest jungles they could find. The locals were offered a place to live that would save them from the slavers, and the jesuits had a willing group of people keen to get involved in their teachings. These settlements worked so well they ended up getting an expulsion order in 1786. In the settlements they had blacksmiths, bakers, leather workers etc, everything they needed for the community to work well together.

We went to visit one of these missions, and it’s great. Well worth the visit. It is interesting to be called a “Foreigner in general”, and also to be charged more than everyone else. That’s a bit of a trend we’re spotting. We don’t mind too much as we hope to spend more time in the wilder areas with less of these types of “attractions”, but while they are on our doorstep it would be crazy to miss them. We’re in trouble now folks, as Sarah has left the cultural post up to me!

It’s nice to feel loved

 

The missions covered a large area, at a guess between 50 and 100 acres.

 

The Argentinians are great people for the out of doors stuff. Loads of people outside milling about.

 

We did chat with some folks, once they might cop we were speaking english they would love to find out where we were from, what we’re doing etc. I think there is a bit of wanderlust in every south american’s heart. We had a nice chat with an American lady who was their with her Uruguayan cattle farmer husband. Most people  are fascinated as to how we got our truck here, and we are finding it to be a great icebreaker.

Side view of front of the Church.

 

Beside the church, there was a huge courtyard with rooms in the buildings that lined it. These are in amazingly good shape.

 

In some places, Nature is taking it all back

 

The detail in some of the carvings is impressive, especially when you consider the time frame, and what tools they may have had.

Some things are the same the world over, people go places, take pictures and go home.

Categories: Argentina | 2 Comments

A giant leap for Moglander, a small step in South America

We are now very definitly under way in South America. We have enjoyed a week in Uruguay, and if the weather was  a bit more pleasant we would have stayed longer. It is a very friendly country, and easy to find your way around, through the road signs do not always help!

 

Road sign in Uruguay.

 

But that’s not anything that would slow down team Moglander! Onwards and upwards! Yes, Upwards as in North. We decided to head North for a bit as it’s still a little too like winter in the Southern parts of South America. Besides, since we cannot explore every part of the country, we have to pick and choose where we travel to. Going north allows us to see a few things that we could not see elsewhere.  However

Our route North brought us through a few towns, and the one we liked most is called Mercedes. We parked up on the side of the town Plaza for 2 days, and got a few bits and pieces sorted out.  We sorted out our gas problem. We had no gas bottles with us as we incorrectly understood that they could not be brought on the ship. MISTAKE! When you are traveling with the truck, this is not even checked, and we could have brought a couple of full bottles with us. We could but buy any in Uruguay because their bottles are too physically wide to fit into the Moglander’s gas bottle press. So, we bought a little 3kd bottle and a ring that screws on top of it for about €60, and we used that until we got to Argentina. We will hang onto the Uruguay setup for outside cooking as it’s a handy size, and pretty sturdy. we could not get a regulator to allow the small bottle to be connected to our cooker, that’s not to say there isn’t one, but it was beyond our reach after spending a few days chasing around towns from one gas suppliers to another.

Another job we tried to sort out was to get a local model/usb-stick and sim card. Hah! 9 mobile phone shops and only the last one had such a thing. 3 hours later they finally admitted they could not activate it, so we are still at the mercy of roadside wifi spots. Hopefully we we will a stick soon (or ideally an “open” model that we can use with any sim card). We messed up that we didn’t get our iphones “unlocked” before leaving home, so we cannot put local sim cards into them. Ah well, we live and learn!

Rotary and Lions clubs signs visible in almost every town.

Our parking place in Mercedes for 2 days.

In Mercedes, which is a working town, you could see just about anything parked on the streets.

This truck was working too hard to be put in a Museum. And we saw older ones still hauling stuff.

 

The barber shop fitted right in. It had no front wall whatsoever.

Just outside of Mercedes, there is a shrine to a cowboy, a Gaucho called Gil. We are seeing shrines to him all over the place. He has a place in the heart and soul of the country. Folks from all over the place visit the shrine and leave car number plates, musical instruments, knives guns, saddles and even wedding dresses. Yup, that one got us too. People here believe in him just as much as folks in Ireland are convinced that they have seen statues crying.

Plates on the wall at the shrine.

 

And those plates are a close up of this:

Each room at the shrine is packed with something or other.

 

This guy was really taken by the shrine. Did not drop is Mate though.

 

The collections go on and on and on.

 

The first thing we wanted to see was the “Esteros del Iberá” which is a unique wetland area with it’s own set of wildlife and birds. The boat trips went from the only campsite in town, so we thought that would be a great place to stay, except that we were too tall to get inside the gate!

Sorry lanky, not allowed in

So, we did a deal to be able to park there, and use the facilities and we did’nt need to move to do the boat tour. Grand. And what a tour it was!

Capybara, world biggest rodent.

 

I’m not sure if I was on the lunch menu but he seemed to be thinking about it. Black Caimen

 

Marsh Deer, also known as Blastocerus dichotomus

 

Look behind you – This photo should be from a Panto

 

Giant wood rail takes giant steps

 

my only decentish butterfy shot, and a bit of the wing is missing.

 

a Screamer family, this bird makes a noise that matches its name

 

Baby time in the wetlands. these guys were about a foot long.

One small moan as a photographer, they only opened access to the park at 7:30am, when the sun was already well up. Other than that, this is a super place for seeing these (And other) creatures. We saw all of the above on one morning.

Anyway, after all this nature, we decided we were ready for some culture, and headed further north to see one of the Missions set up by the Jesuits in the 1600’s.

 

Till next time..

Categories: Argentina, Uruguay | 4 Comments